General Lady Brife Pattern Making

The below steps are detailed for the V7.0 version. If you are using V6.0, the steps will be slightly different.

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  1. Open PAD pattern design software, create a new file, click menu [Options]- [Preferences], select the unit(in/cm/mm) in your need.
  2. Draw front rise: Click la3 tool, left click on the blank area, move the mouse and the dialog box appears, then enter the length value: 25.5cm (10in), press [Tab] key on the keyboard and the cursor will jump to the next column, enter the angle vaule: -90, press [Enter] key to finish the operation and you can get the front rise segment “ab”.la4
  3. Draw back rise: still use la3 tool, left click “b” point directly, move the mouse and enter the length value 23cm(9.1in) in the appearing dialog box, press [Tab] key on the keyboard and the cursor will jump to the next column, enter the angle vaule: -180, press [Enter] key to finish the operation and you can get the back rise segment “bc”.
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  4. Draw front waistline: still use la3 tool, left click “a” point directly, move the mouse towards the right, enter the value 26.7cm (10.5in) on the appearing dialog box directly, press the [Tab] key twice let the cursor jump to “Opening Value” column, ebter the value 1.5cm (0.6in), press the [Enter] key or left click the blank area to finish the operation and you can get “ad” segment.
  5. Bend the “ad” segment in need： click la6 tool, left click to drag “ad” line to be curve shape in need, release the mouse to finish the operation.la7
  6. Draw back waistline: click la3 tool, left click “c” point, move the mouse towards the right,enter the value 26.7cm (10.5in) on the appearing dialog box directly, press the [Tab] key twice let the cursor jump to “Opening Value” column, ebter the value -1.5cm (-0.6in), press the [Enter] key or left click the blank area to finish the operation and you can get “ce” segment.
  7. Bend the “ce” segment in need： click la6 tool, left click to drag “ce” line to be curve shape in need, release the mouse to finish the operation.la8
  8. Click la9 tool，left click to select “ad” line, clickla3 tool，left click “d” point, move the mouse towards down to pull out a segment, enter the length value 9cm(3.54in) in the appearing dialog box, press [Tab] key let the cursor jump to the next column , enter the angle value 90, press the [Enter] key or left click the blank area to finish the operations.la10} - Use step8’s method to draw out “eg” segment: * {{en:pattern_tutorial:lady_brife:la11.png|la11
  9. Click la3 tool，left click “g” point，hold down [Shift], move the mouse towards to “ac” segment and left click “ac” line, then release [Shift] key, you can get “gh” segment which perpendicular to “ac” segment.la12
  10. Edit “gh” segment length: click la13 tool, enter length value 28.5(11.2in)in the “new length” column and check “Move on X Only” box on the appearing dialog box, click [OK] button to finish the operations.la14
  11. Create “i” point and “j” point on “ah” segment: Select “ba” segment by using la9 tool, click la15 tool，left click “b” point, enter distance value 8cm(3.15in) in the appearing dialog box. Select “bh” segment by using la9 tool, click la15 tool，left click “b” point, enter distance value 8cm(3.15in) in the appearing dialog box.la16 la17
  12. Draw out “ik” segment: click la3 tool,
    • left click “i” point, move the mouse, enter length value 3.25cm (1.28in) in the appearing dialog box. Use the same mathod to draw out “jl” segment: click la3 segment, move the mouse, enter length value 10.5cm (4.1in) in the appearing dialog box.la18 la19
  13. Click la20 tool，
    • left click “f,k,i,g” points one by one, then right click “g” point to finish the operation, then you can get the preliminary leg opening curve. la21
  14. Still use la20 tool，right click the leg opening curve then all points appear, hold down the “Shift” key and left click the desired position on the curve to add points. Left click (do not release the mouse) the point on the curve and then drag the mouse (or you can use the arrow keys on the keybord) to change the curve’s shape. la22
  15. Draw the gusset piece: use la9 tool to select “oi” segment，left click la3 tool，left click “o” point，enter the value 6.5cm (2.6in) in the appearing dialog box, then click “OK” to get the “m” point. Use the same procedure to draw out “n” point. la23 la24
  16. Left click la3 tool，hold down the Shift key and left click “m” point, then move the cursor to point “p” and left click the point “p” to get “mp” segment. > Use the same procedure to draw out “nq” segment. la25
  17. Use la9 tool to select “ik” segment and “jl” segment, press the Backspace key (windows) or Delete key (Mac) to delete selected segments (“ik” segment and “jl” segment) be delete.la26
  18. Left click la9 tool，double click “A” area and then left click “B” area, hold down the Shift key and left click to select “mp” segment, then right click the mouse, “Set Piece” dialog box appears. Check “plan” item and click “Ok” button, then you can get the front piece. Double click “B” area and then right click it directly, check the “plan” item and click [OK] button in the “Set Piece” dialog box, then you can get the gusset piece.Double click “C” area and then right click it directly, check the “plan” item and click [OK] button in the “Set Piece” dialog box, then you can get back piece. la27
  19. All the plan pieces that you set up are piled up together, you can use la9 tool to move away the pieces: hold down the Alt key, left click (hold down and do not release)one outline segment, release the mouse after you moved the piece to the desired position. la28
  20. Select back piece by using la9 tool, left click “c” point and then move the mouse towards “n” point and left click “n” point, whirling counterclockwise and enter the angle value “-180”, press the [Enter] key or left click the blank area to finish the operations. la30
  21. Simulate stitching status of the front and back pieces to smooth the waistband line: hold down the Shift key, select the waistband line and side seam of the front and back pieces by using la9 tool, select la31 tool, left click “f” point and “g” point one by one, then it will present stitching status for you to check if the waistband smooth or not. You can left click the point (hold on and do not release) and dragit to edite the curve, or left click to select the point and then use the arrows key on the keybord to move the point to edite the curve. Right click the blank area to finish the modification. la32
  22. Simulate stitching status of the front and back pieces to smooth the leg opening curve: hold down the Shift key, select the leg opening curve and side seam of the front and back pieces by using la9 tool, select la31 tool, left click “d” point and “e” point one by one, then it will present stitching status for you to check if the leg opening curve smooth or not. You can left click the point (hold on and do not release) and dragit to edite the curve, or left click to select the point and then use the arrows key on the keybord to move the point to edite the curve. Right click the blank area to finish the modification. la33 la34
  23. Unfold the all the half pieces into completed pieces: take front piece as an example: use la9 tool to select the center line of the front piece, select la35 and left click the selected center line. la36 la37
  24. Now you’ve finish the lady brief pattern making, then you can follow the following manual to learn how to set pieces and how to add seam allowance.
1）How to set pieces: http://www.padsystem.com/en/assets/documents/en/pattern/pattern_design_en_ch2_treatment_detail.html
2）How to add seam allowance: http://www.padsystem.com/en/assets/documents/en/pattern/pattern_design_en_ch3.html#tool-image163-seam-allowance